The Burger Wars

Americans consume millions of burgers every year, according to the USDA. On average, people eat three of the meaty sandwiches a week. Now imagine the marketing potential of a town boasting to be the birthplace of the hamburger, and you've got a lively competition that spans thousands of miles. In Seymour, Wisconsin, locals tell of "Hamburger Charlie" Nagreen, who reportedly created the first ground-beef sandwich at the 1885 Outagamie County Fair. Not happy with the tepid sales of his meatballs, Nagreen squashed one between two slices of bread, and created a new novelty food, which he deemed the "hamburger". His story has been widely documented and an imposing 16-foot tall statue of Nagreen looks across much of the main street neighborhood.

Bill Collar plays "Hamburger Charlie" at Seymour's annual Burger Fest, which draws in an estimated 20,000 people every year to the town. The proceeds are used to beautify this northeastern town of 3500, and fund several high school scholarship. The town is also currently in the Guiness Book of World Records, for cooking an 8,266-lb. hamburger patty in 2001 (below)

But not so fast, says Peggy Gould of Athens, Texas. She and her fellow resident, state representative Betty Brown, say a vendor named Fletch Davis actually invented the hamburger, and served them at a local pottery in the 1880s. Culinary history was made when Davis took his food-cart over to the Worlds Fair in St. Louis in 1904. Athens also hosts an annual event in honor of Davis and his hamburger, which funds community projects. Representative Betty Brown has recently filed a resolution during the 80th legislative session in Texas, recognizing Athens as the birthplace of the burger.

Still with us? Then come to New Haven, Connecticut...

...where for four generations, the Lassen family has cooked and served burgers at Louis' Lunch. Proprietor Jeff Lassen still prepares the patties with a unique, vertical cast-iron grill that his great-grandfather, Louis Lassen used beginning in 1898. The Lassens say that in 1900, Louis had a customer on the run, so he quickly made a mobile snack by putting a chopped-beef patty (known in some circles as a Hamburg steak) between two slices of toast. The account has been repeated in TV shows like Oprah and Good Morning America, and the Library of Congress even recognizes Louis Lunch as the birthplace of the burger.

But for all the claims and counter-claims, some people say it's uncertain if the debate will ever be resolved. John Mariani, author of The American Encylopedia of Food and Drink, says the terms "hamburger" and "hamburger steak" predate all claims so far, and the one essential item - an old article speaking of a diner enjoying a new novelty food item resembling the hamburger - remains elusive. Yet the ruckus has also publicized places like Seymour, which appreciates the tourism drawn to its hamburger heritage. And many people will keep enjoying this very American fare for some time. Whether or not the cradle of burgerdom is positively identified, the appeal of a simple beef patty tucked inside a bun remains strong among millions of citizen-diners, young and old. All photos taken by Brian Bull, except for world's biggest hamburger (Home of the Hamburger, Inc.) and exterior shot of Louis Lunch (courtesy of Jeff Lassen)

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