The Wonders Of Winter Squash

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• Get Smitten With Winter Squash, Author Says

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  No matter what the season, there are delicious varieties of squash to enjoy. And this time of year, the beautiful and delicious winter varieties really take center stage.

  Amanda Paa’s love of squash is clear in her book, “Smitten with Squash.” But as much as she appreciates the summer bounty of zucchinis and patty pans, it’s really the cool weather offerings that get her excited.

  Those winter varieties are “really where my heart lies,” Paa said. “It’s all about the comfort of these different types of winter squash that can grace our kitchens throughout the entire season, from now all the way until March.”

  One of the reasons that Paa appreciates winter squash is that it is rare to be able to eat locally throughout a Midwestern winter. Bu thanks to their thicker rinds, winter squash are well-adapted to storing in a root cellar or under similar conditions.

  Their durability is matched only by their versatility, Paa said. “From savory to sweet, from breakfast to lunch, desserts, snacks … it’s all there.”

  In addition to being delicious, winter squash are “very nutrient-dense,” Paa said. High levels of beta carotene are evident in the bright orange color of the flesh, but winter squash are also good sources of potassium, vitamin B6, carotenoids, and dietary fiber. The calorie cost is quite low, too, coming in at about 82 calories per cup.

  Paa acknowledged that the tough skins and sometimes odd appearance of winter squash can be intimidating to some people.

  “I refer to them as a little ‘beauty and the beast’ looking,” she said. “They may look odd on the outside, but when you open them, the possibilities and opportunities that lie inside are great.”

  Once a home cook is ready to get adventurous with winter squash, the next step is to choose one from the supermarket or farmers’ market. Paa said that making sure that the skin is undamaged is important.

  “It can have all of the bumps and weird nodules that are on there. That’s not a problem at all, and doesn’t mean anything bad,” she said.

  But if there are nicks and cuts, that makes it possible for bacteria to enter the squash, which can lead to rot. As a result, she recommends using a squash within a day or two if the skin is compromised.

  Paa said that to get a good squash, make sure that the stem is still attached and is dry with no trace of green on it. That means that the squash was left on the vine as long as it needed to be, and that the grower properly cured it.

  Squash that were picked too soon are more likely to be stringy and not as sweet, Paa said. “It’s going to be a little more bland, and a little more vegetal tasting.”

  Another indication of a well-ripened squash, especially on an acorn or kabocha, is a patch of orange on the rind. “That’s a good sign,” she said, “because that means it’s been left in the field long enough for it to start to mature, and that spot is where it laid.

  In “Smitten with Squash,” Paa covers the common varieties, like acorns, butternut and spaghetti squash, but also the less familiar ones like delicata, blue hubbard, red kuri, buttercup and kabocha.

  Paa acknowledges that it’s human nature to gravitate to those varieties that are more familiar. But she hopes that people will get adventurous with winter squash. “This year, try one or two varieties that you haven’t before,” she said, “and really see the difference in them, both taste- and texture-wise compared to what you’re used to.”

  The Epicurious food and recipe web site has a visual guide to winter squash that can be a good resource.

  Here is a recipe to try which is reprinted with permission from “Smitten with Squash” by Amanda Kay Paa, published by Minnesota Historical Society Press.

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  Sweet Delicata Pie With Pecan Praline

  Makes one 9-inch pie

  Crust:

  • 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons old-fashioned oats
  • 3/4 cup oat flour (make your own: use a food processor to grind
  • 3/4 cup old-fashioned oats to a powder-like consistency)
  • 1/4 cup ground pecans
  • 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
  • pinch kosher salt

  Filling:

  • 1 3/4 cup roasted delicata squash puree (Cut squash in half and roast at 375 degrees, cut side down on a baking sheet for 30 minutes, until you can easily scoop out the flesh. Then puree in a food processor until smooth or mash by hand.)
  • 1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 3/4 cup milk (dairy or nondairy)
  • 3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
  • 2 large eggs

  Praline:

  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • pinch sea salt
  • 1/2cup chopped pecans
  • 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
  • 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
  • whipped cream

  Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Grease bottom and sides of 9-inch pie pan.

  In a bowl, stir together all crust ingredients with a fork so everything is coated with the butter. Press firmly into pan, covering bottom and about halfway up the sides. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. A nice, toasty fragrance signals the crust is done. Remove from oven and let cool on wire rack for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees.

  While crust is baking, add squash puree, spices, vanilla, milk, and brown sugar to bowl of food processor. Process until completely smooth. Add eggs and pulse until just incorporated, being careful not to over-mix. When crust has cooled, pour in filling and smooth top, then lightly tap on counter to let contents settle evenly.

  Bake about 50 minutes, checking for doneness at 45 minutes. To avoid baking it into a soufflé that will crack, remove pie from oven when the filling is set and puffing ever so slightly, giving a little shimmy if you shake the pan lightly. The pie will firm up as it chills. Cool pie on a wire rack, then chill in the fridge for at least 3 hours.

  Meanwhile, make praline. Grease a baking sheet and set aside. Set a saucepan over medium heat and add butter to melt, swirling pan to coat the bottom. Stir in salt, pecans, and brown sugar and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until brown sugar has dissolved. Add maple syrup and cook, stirring, until bubbling and sticky.

  Remove from heat; spoon and spread the praline onto prepared baking sheet to cool. Break praline into pieces for garnishing the pie.

  When pie has cooled, serve with whipped cream and praline.